Friday, 17 October 2014

The Week I Stayed with a Man Called Carl

First of all I should probably apologise for being a lazy bastard and not uploading dor a fair few weeks. It is probably about time that I posted another blog, so in this episode of "A 15 Month Adventure of an Intrepid Norfolkian", I will be telling you about a week I spent with a 67 year old chap called Carl from Guatemala (mostly in the form of pictures, because I am too lazy to be writing much right now).

Carl's Beast

Carl. This guy was a true inspiration and after spending a week with this extroverted grandpa, I felt like getting old wouldn't be too bad after all. So let you tell you a bit about him. At 67, Carl has a stronger set of lungs and heart than most people in their 20s - on regular occasions he climbs the volcanos that surround his beautiful home in the heart of Guatemala; these are no molehills either, they stick out at well over 3000m and some over 4000m above sea level. He spoke of a trip he did a few months' ago, where he had climbed 7 volcanos in a week on consequetive days, including the tallest and second tallest in the whole of Central American. He is also quite the avid cyclist and there isn't a day that passes by, when he doesn't get on his little bitch :D (so he called it) and on occasions I was panting to keep up with the sod on some of the ascents we did around Guatemala. A true inspiration.

 

So what did the old boy have in store for a young whipper snapper? Well, a lot is the answer. And you would think that after a week-long stay in his botanical haven (my own home for the week), I would be well-rested, but instead I was more drained than when I got there.

My little botanical garden for the week
Inside my home
Wood powered stove

 

To give you an overview of the week:

  • Climbed Santa Maria Volcano with an overnight camp
  • 40km ride with and copious amounts of uphill in order to talk at a conservation meeting he had with at his local district bosque (woods) on the top of a volcano. Surprisingly
  • Climbed Volcano Chicabal at the crack of dawn 04:00 for sunrise.
  • Digging up his organicly grown vegetable allotment - which is the size of most people's local park.
  • Climbing and camping at the top of Tajamulco, Central America's highest peak at 4220m.

 

As everybody knows a picture tells a thousand words, so instead of mumbling on about the treks. I will just present a few of the photos to give you a taster of what it was like (plus I am feeling lazy and not very creative to write about it):
 

Volcano Chicabal, extinct with crystal clear green pools

Santa Maria from Chicabal
Extinct Olcano Chicabel with it's green lagoon
And again

Volcano Santa Maria 3770m high, camping at the top...

Camp fire at the top of Santa Maria
Sun rise
Best sunrise. I have ever seen!
About 06:00 looking down south
Looking North from Santa Maria
Looking down at Volcano Fuego, still smoking away
 

Volcano Tajamulco 4220m high (tallest mountain in Cental America), camping at the top...

A cold ascent to the top of Tajamulco
Carl sorting out the bangers
Morning jobby looking over to Mexico
And again...
Descending into the clouds

Tom's Cool Facts about Guatemala:

  1. The name "Guatemala" is said to mean the "land of many trees," and there’s truth to that. The country’s three types of terrain include the volcanic central highlands
  2. The first inhabitants of Guatemala arrived as far back as 18,000 B.C. And Guatemala was the hub of the Mayan civilization
  3. Lastly, Guatemala is home to 33 volcanos despites it's small size

 

Wednesday, 27 August 2014

Las Comidas Corridas y Cervezas Bonita

After the last episode of my blog, I want to move on to lighter things, so as promised I am going to tell you a bit about Mexican food and I have got a few stories, you may or may not want to have a little chuckle at.

Wild coconuts are a bit of a delicacy for me, but damn hard to get into

OK, When you think of Mexican food, what do you think of..?

Well, if you are from the UK and like me, I bet you had chili con carne on your mind. So entering Mexico, I was thinking "great!", this is one of the three meals that I could make reasonably well (if I say so myself) and sustained me the whole way through uni (James W would know). Therefore, I really couldn't wait to try some CCC made by the locals to make a comparison. Boy was I wrong. This dish that so many British people associate with Mexico is actually non-existent. I hunted high and low for this baby; scoured the menus that I could find and even asked at a few local comedors for it, but all I got was blank looks shooting back to me.

Can I eat this?

Now you are probably thinking, "What have these Mexicans got up their sleeves then?" And I am going to reveal their dirty little secrets...

Their big secret. Contains one word. Chilis. Mexicans love chilis. If you do not like spicy food I would advise strongly to avoid Mexico like the plague. I mean these guys put chili on everything. You ask for a hard-boiled sweet, it contains chili; take a bite of any packet of crisps and they are going to be twice as hot as the fiery red kind of Doritos we get in the UK; then to top it of, you get some bastard adding a bit of chili powder to your mango... WTF. All your food is going to come partially spicy, whether you like it or not; but then to add the icing on the cake they will normally ask something like: "¿Què tipo de salsa quiere, roja o verde?", translating to "Do you want red or green chili sauce?", but the great thing is in every restaurant the hotter sauce is always different to the resturant before, so it is pot luck on whether you get the hot or the unbearable-hot sauce to go with your already spicy meal.

Do you want chili with that? Mangos like no others!

Winge over. What does Mexico really have to offer... If you have been reading my other blogs you will already know in parts of Mexico fresh blood from the head of an Iguana is a bit of a delicacy; but what else have they got in store. Well, me being classed as a beginner at speaking Spanish, I have found it extremely difficult to understand what the hell I am about to go and order, plainly because few of the food words are remotely similar sounding in Spanish and therefore I may pick up one or two words like "chorizo", "carne" or "arroz" during the waiter's ramble about what they have to offer. So my food experience have been somewhat of an adventure in itself, especially when trying to convey what I want to eat. You may say, why don't you just translate the menu or point at it. Well, I will tell you why I was unable to do that chappys; because there is fuck all menu to translate. The menu is nearly always verbally spoken, at what seems to be an auctioneer's vocal pace. Therefore, I have been presented with some quite extroadinary palates, including: black beans and chorizo dumped onto a plate (not forgetting my side of chilis), egg with chorizo and just chorizo by itself (can you see the general trend and guess why...), obviously these all come with tortillas too...

On one occasion my waiter looked particularly confused and after she brought me a coffee, which I ordered successfully (a good start), albeit without milk. So I asked the waiter "Con Leche, por favor" (blank look returned) probably my pronunciation, so I repeated "Leche con cafe por favor" and she seemed to understand the second time. To be honest, I thought this was pretty straightforward request, but after about 5 minutes I was wondering the hell she was up to. A minute after that, she returned with a hot glass of milk and dumped a full jug of Nescafé coffee granules next to me. I smiled and accepted it gratefully.

Me with my host Glenda in La Paz, Mexico, chomping on some Mexican cuisine

There has also been some absolutely cracking dishes that Mexico has provided me. Things like Molè, which is typically a chocolate-based sauce you have with your meal, pozole, which is a soupy based dish with rice or maize as the carb, based around one or two types of meat, atolé, which is a typically a chocolate-based hot drink and ischada, which is a sweet drink made from rice and one of my favourites, Tomales, a kind of mashed up sweetcorn thing with chilis or carne inside. Not forgetting the standard hot spicy whole roast chicken and carne asada. With every dish you get a standard side of hot salsas, which can place on your food to eliminate all the flavour from the dish, along with the standard mountain-sized portion of home-made tortillas and a small side of chopped tomatoes and peppers.

Pozole, in a quaint little resturant with my fellow WS hosts
Home-cooked food from another WS host
Molè with carne asada. A meal fit for a king.

One of my fondest memories of Mexico is the 20 de Noviembre Market of Oaxaca. This market could be described as one massive kitchen and how it works is you go through segments of the market including: meat section, vegetables and bread and finally beverages. This market probably isn't best if you are a vegie, because of the facts there is tons of raw meat hanging on these stalls looking particularly delightful, including plucked chickens, big steaks of beef and much more. I went for the standard half kilo of beef steak cooked medium with a side of bread and orange juice, but you could buy and cook this meat by the kilo, which was simply dreamy for a meat fanatic like myself.

20 de Noviembre market (photo pinched from internet)

In general the food is not at all pretenious, like the fancy shit you sometimes you get in these nice resturants in England. It is not flamboyant or delicately presented, it is solely really good tasting food with a tint of spice, which I adored. At the end of the day, who the hells wants a tiny spoonful of thyme-infused mashed potato with a pinch finest sea salt from so-and-so place, who gives a F. I speak sense, right? In Mexico, almost all of the time, all the food is cooked in front of you on a wood-burning hot plate in plain view, which is always a bit of a show and I enjoyed greatly. Overall one happy camper...

Work them tortillas baby
This is how my meals compare, pasta or rice with a side of tomato sauce and tuna. D-E-Lightful

Moving on. Drink. What can I say. The beer in Mexico is sooo cheap and all the premium brands we have in the UK, like Sol, Estrella and Corona are the equivalent to Carlsburg's price in sunny Mexico, so you can only imagine how I got my fill. Some of the more interesting beers I had a chance to try included brands like Indio, Tecate and León; and these all were good. The spirits are also extremely cheap and a high-quality bottle of Tequila or Mezcal you can grab for less than a tenner, which inevitably meant I had to endure a few nasty hangovers on the bike. I even became slightly famous by the locals after a big night out in Oaxaca city, by making quite a scene in the late night take-away taco place. The following morning, when I was crawling past the same place to soak up my demons, a few Mexicans came out to greet and laugh at the state of me.

Tequila tasting in the city of Tequila

OK, that is all for food and drink, now on to another episode of to Tom's Cool Facts (TCF) and this time they are going to be about Mexican food and drink, so here goes:

  1. To truly be a good Tequila and Mezcal should be drunk with a worm at the bottom of the glass to enhance the smokiness of the flavour. Well, sorry to be a party pooper but this is all a bit of marketing gimmick and doesn't really affect the flavour.
  2. Mexico is one of the top 4 megabiodiverse environments in the world and it actually contains between 60-70% of all the types of environment in the world. Therefore despite popular beliefs, a lot of food originally originated from Mexico, including: dragonfruit (considered asian, super tasty tropical fruit), vanilla (despite being very expensive in Mexico) and tomatoes (a lot of people think these originated from Italy) among much more...
  3. Tradional Mexican restaurants must contain a Mayoria, which is a female sous chef and translates to a female head chef. Although with the modernisation this has only become a part truth and nowadays some Mexican resturants do not even have one. A sad truth.

Wildlife update: dead monkey road kill, green iguanas, vampire bats (these lil' bastards spread rabies), a lot more species of lizards, crazy fireflies and a lot of interesting birds (including what I thought were birds of paradise, with a crown of feathers for their mating ritual).

I know you are all dieing to see my beard growth, but I am not going to give you that. I am going to give you something better. Behold...

...

...

...

The calves, a.k.a the sheds, the turkeys or the tumours by many people

Even I thought that they were looking particularly grotesque. But I know the ladies dig them. I did it for them.

Thanks for reading fellows and hopefully it has put a smile on your face,

Love from your adventurous duo - Tom and Ingrid

 

 

Monday, 11 August 2014

Wow, I really wasn't expecting that...

So in this blog post I thought it would have been a good time to talk about the food of Mexico. That was until what happened on Sunday 3rd August at around 12:30 when passing through the mountains in the region of Oaxaca. Therefore, I am going to go over this quick story and then another post a few days later will talk about the weird habits of Mexican food and a few funny food-related stories.

Nasty passes on the ol' girl

O.K. You have to picture the scene. Leaving the hostel in Oaxaca City reasonably early on Sunday (apart from the rotten hangover from an abundance of Mezcal, the local spirit it felt like any other day. I knew I had a tough few days passing through the mountains to the coast, in order to cross through the Guatemalan border near Tapachula, Chiapas. But little did I know what was in store for me that day...

Typical mountain road through the region of Oaxaca

As the previous days cycling through Oaxaca, I was busting my arse cycling through the 8000ft mountain passes and after a brief stop in a small town named Santiago Matatlan and gobbling down the standard carne asada, a bit of cooked beef, with he standard side portion of tortillas and frijoles (beans); I hit the road with a new lease of energy. Everything was going swell, until the astrocity what I came across after a tiny town on a long mountain pass. Just after leaving ....., I glanced across and on the left-hand side of the road, and as always there what looked to be a large bit of road-kill, probably a large dog. However after a second glance I realised what I was looking at. Laying in a driveway of a small mountain cottage. Was a dead Mexican guy. Just laying there. It took me that second glance to actually register what I was seeing. As soon as it registered; shivers shot up my spine and my head genuinely felt like my head was going to explode, under all the nerve endings jolting. It felt like what I could imagine shock or shell shock would feel like. My body froze. The next 3 seconds my eyes were fixated on this body. And more details were showing through: I noticed this guy was soaked in blood from head to toe and a puddle had accumulated around his life-less body. The next thing I noticed and it shocked me was. This guy's right foot had literally been chopped off. God knows how this happened. And if I would have had to take a guess, I would assume that he was tortured and murdered, because this poor chap was an absolute mess. He couldn't have been there long; maybe 5 minutes. Becuase the murderers must have dumped the body off by his or his family's cottage.

Ingrid - what a stunning mare. Good ol' girl

 

What was I meant to do?

I wasn't entirely sure what to do... Do I contact the police? Do I go and speak to some of the people in the city and explain the situation with my broken Spanish (I do not even know how to say 'dead')? or Do I just run? Well, you can probably guess what option I picked. I just got the fuck out of there. I wasn't willing to get involved with people who are going to chop guy's feet off and dump them on the side of the road and the police may suspect me and would no doubt want to ask me a bagfull of questions and a statement.

Beautiful scenery in Oaxaca

So instead, I pedaled my little heart out for the next 20km at a silly speed to get out of, what I thought might be the danger area. The shear realisation of what I saw was playing over in my head, while cycling and I really just couldn't believe what I just saw. Was it just a make-up doll? Or a joke? It may have been; but it was damn realistic. I eventually stopped just to cool off and I realised my little beater was on overdrive. I sat down, to give the poor bugger a rest. I read Game of Thrones for 30 minutes to get my mind of the situation, but just couldn't concentrate. In the end in the end I tried to slee. But all I could see was this dead Mexican...

My wildcamping spot the day of the dead guy sighting

To say I slept like a log that night would be a complete lie. All I can tell you is I braved a wild camping spot about 50km south of the scene. The scenery was stunning as seen above, but I had my knife at the ready, close at hand ready for war...

...

...

Later in southern Mexico, I got pretty friendly with an English teacher in a smallish town on the coast. He also had stories of similar happenings, but they were 10 times more descriptive and brutal. They honestly sounded like medievil wartime stories.

The lesson of this post is don't get on the wrong side of any Mexican. Or look like you have a lot of money. Fullstop.

 

Hasta luego muchachos,

Love Tomás and Ingrid (still alive and still going strong in Guatemala)

 

 

Tuesday, 29 July 2014

When it rains, it pours!

Every Englishman knows there is nothing better to talk about than the weather and I am like any other Englishman and love a good chinwag with the locals about what the weather up to; after all, it is the most exciting thing to talk about, right? So in this episode of "A 15 month adventure of an intrepid Norfolkian", I am going to share a few stories about the weather here in the magical Mexico.

Tropical climate between Mazátlan and Tepic
Laguna Ciutzeo just before a big storm came rolling in
Cerca Guadalahara...

If you have been reading my other posts, you already know that it was absolutely scorching in the Baja Penisula to the point of blistering the skin; but surprising, just by crossing the Sea of Cortez (about 150miles east) the weather has changed dramatically and the scenery has followed it. What I am confronted with now, is a tropical/rainforest climate and now I finally understand why they call it a rainforest. When the heavens open; jeez does it rain! If you are lucky, along with raindrops the size of chicken nuggets you may also encounter marble-sized hail and lightening bolts every other score of seconds.

Lucky photo of some lightening over the valley near Jocotitlan
There´d be a storm a coming

On one particular occasion I took cover under a bridge ready for another 2 hour downpour, when it just so happens that 6 other Mexican workers fancied a little picnic with me. Like all the other Mexicans I have had the pleasure of meeting, these guys were super friendly and hospitable. We collated our food together, of which I contributed some pinched mangos and crackers, and low-and-behold we had ourselves a feast fit for kings, containing various tacos, tortillas, beer, vege, salsa and more (not forgetting my mangos and crackers obviously). We sat around with our little picnic, watching the storm of all storms open up before us. Everybody remembers counting the seconds in between the flash and the bang, right? Well, at one point the count inbetween the flash and crack must have been less than the blink of an eye, so it could have been no more than 100 metres away. Hail thundered down onto motorway for about 15 minutes and even the cars had to take cover under the bridge in fear that it would dent the body panels, because these little bastards were bigúns! After our picnic, we parted our ways; them, going back to chopping the bushes with machetes and me trotting up a fuck off big hill! End of.

Mexican workers and a jolly picnic...
Fuck off large hail stones!
More hail. Hail Mary!
The boundary of a storm near Tepic

The mainland Mexicans have also made me feel kind of famous. On a number of occasions I have had cars and trucks pull over to get that infamous photo of themselves with Ingrid and I... Normally, I charge a small fee for the pleasure, either of a pack of biscuits, a taco or some fluids. But in one instance a guy had obviously took a fancy to me and had various photos of myself cycling on a range of roads 400km a part. When on the 3rd time he plucked up the courage to show me his espionage work and to get that infamous photo of him, Ingrid and I: on that occasion the guy gave me some tamanos filled with chili and meat (not entirely sure what they are, but think they are mushed up sweetcorn). Good lad.The temperature has ranged from close to 40C to below 7C at nights and it is the first time I have had to snuggle up in my sleeping bag and it has been super hilly, on some days climbing close to 7000ft and altitude ranging from 4000-8750ft (or close to 3 times the height of Snowdon).


Mangos the size of footballs and juicy like no other. one Ranch owner gave us a bag full of em

Since coming over to the mainland Mexico I have been wild camping a lot,which means I pitch a tent just about anywhere (haha I know what you are thinking), but I have also taken the liberty of the odd ranch stay and WS host. The camping here is fantastic and I cannot really put it into words the picturesque places I have camped, so instead here are a few photos of heaven...


Washing in bins like a boss/tramp

Wild camp near El Rosario

Cracking spot just north of Mazátlan near old stone carvings
This bad boy is at an altitude of around 2500m and it gets chilly at night

To add to that, after nearly 2 months I actually paid for a nights accomodation in Tepic. Not entirely sure why to be honest; maybe the camping had taken its toll and I was in need of a shower. But anyway I spent 7 or 8 quid on my own room in this Hotel Economíc; so you can only imagine how grotty it was. Although, it was luxurious in comparison to spending a night in a tent and I definitely got my moneys worth by pinching a couple of rolls of toilet paper and bars of soap (was tempted by the towel, but got detered by the extra weight); I know the Whitlams would be proud!

Cosy lil´ bed sit for a small fee

It is nearing the 2 month mark, so thought I would bore your brains with a few interesting stats.

  • 5150km ridden
  • Highest altitude 8763ft
  • Weight of bike (laden) - a shade over 50kg or 110 pounds
  • Weight lost - 4.5kg or 9.5 pounds
  • Most amount of climbing in one day: a shade over 8000ft
  • Top speed: 75km/hr
  • Most amount of Coke drunk in a day: 5 litres (yes, Coke is an integral source of my daily calories)
  • Accidents to date: 1 (ripped my ear open on a barbed wire fence; thanks mum for packing them steristrips)
  • Number of times I have used the fishing rod: 1 (for pinching a joblot of mangos from a tall tree, they are incredibly large and juicy here in Mexico)
Before my handy work
After my handy work. Thanks Mum for the steristrips

Wildlife update (O my lordy, it has been incredible): Lizards (tens of species, but they are too hard to take a picture of), chameleons, geckos, fireflys, unusually large frogs (I am talking the size of a small cat...) tortoises, terapins, armadillos, snakes, thousands of butterflys, skunks, crazy large rodent thingy-me-bobs (the technical name), a super large spider (this bastard was the side of my hand and he definitely was not a web type of spider, he was a hunter) and much more!

I thought it looked nice, muchos insectos aquí
I must have seen over 20 types of butterflys in Mexico
The Fake Coral Snake - the other one that looks very similar is deadly
Chilling...
I wanted to skin this cretin and give Ingrid a new look.

 

Thought I would also add a new section and am going to call it "Toms Cool Facts" (creative name, I know), so in this episode of TCF I have:

  1. Did you know that Tequila can only be called Tequila if it comes from one of the 5 states in Mexico that make it. It is made of Agave (type of cactus) and it requires an unusual composition of soil containing volcanic rock with a the right amount of rain and sun. I actually took an awesome trip around Tequila, where it originated from and got pretty pissed up on tequila - it is ridulously cheap and premium quality. Got a couple of bottles for the road, like you do.
  2. In certain parts of Mexico it is not uncommon to find locals chopping the head off an Iguana and drinking the sangre (blood), according to a ranch owner I stayed with. He told me I had to do this before I left in the morning, because it would make me strong; unfortunatly though we did not catch one...
Beware Iguanas! I will have your head...

That is all for this time folks.

 

Love from your adventurous duo

Tom and Ingrid x

 

PS: If you are interested in the route I have taken so far you can find my day-by-day mileage here: http://www.strava.com/athletes/347433